July 10, 2007

Am back to civilisation!

Morning outside Ulaan Baatar

View from above Ulaan Baatar

Entering Ulaan Baatar

Ulaan Baatar Memorial

Have just returned to UB, Ulaan Bataar after two weeks of jumping up and down the dirt tracks of Central and Northern Mongolia. It was fun, advenurous... and incredibly rough. We camped in the mountains, trying to fall asleep to the sound of howling wolves.

We washed in icy cold lakes, cooked in the worst possible conditions. We experienced gutsy winds and storms, woke up soaked in our sleeping bags because our rainproof tarp had been wrenched away.

We crossed bridgeless rivers, broke down numerous times, got caught in traffic jam of sheep and goat herds... Just the facts: Sheep are Mongolia's most important livestock. Most herders are nomadic and usually move four times a year, once each season. Their staple food is meat, in summer supplemented by a variety of diary products. Vegetables are rare, as the herders usually do not have gardens.

We picnicked in the middle of yak shit and enjoyed the hospitality of nomadic people.

and had, in one word, a fabulous time. Our group was fantastic, all travelers from different countries and two locals - a driver and a young aspiring guide learning his trade. We formed a close knit family for 14 days and all got on fabulously, which was a stoke of luck considering the fact that we were all seasoned basckpackers accustomed to travel independently! I enjoyed the experience immensely in part because of the chemistry among the group I was with. We were all positive, resilient and intensely appreciative of the beauty of our surroundings and of Mongolia rural life despite the hardships and discomfort.

The team:

Moon:

...a vivacious, attractive 29 year old woman from South Korea. She reminded me a bit of Yoko Ono and looked like a smiling south East Asia Buddha when asleep. Easy going, she was game for anything. She became our speaker as she demonstrated an amazing aptitude in expressing herself in basic Mongolian.

Son: the buffoon of the group.

A 36 art teacher from Singapore with an incredible sense of humor. He gave a great fright when he jumped into the glacial waters of White Lake in a sudden burst of enthusiasm and nearly died of hypothermia.

White Lake

Camp fire...Mongol style

Iftah: 24 year old Israeli

... with the looks of a Middle Easter biblical shepherd with his curly hair, long lashes and beard. I will remember him for his dazzling smile and gentleness. He could however be fierce. He was the one who had the idea of buying a sheep and having it slaughtered the Mongolian way. A cut is done at the level of the heart; the organ is squeezed to death. Not only did he feast on the meat but he also drank the blood. I must admit, however that we appreciated his talents as a salad maker as we became quickly "proteined out" and were in great need of vitamins.

Jimmy: a 25 year old Vietnamese American.

He was one year old when his parents fled the country by way of land after reunification. Jimmy had the knack to locate the local bakery in the tiniest villages, relying on his sense of smell. To our astonishment, he would come back with fresly baked cookies and fragrant loaves of bread. He was also appointed the accountant of the group and often walked around with a pencil on his ear.

Vince: a 26 year old Malay, an avid photographer

who took amazing shots, especially portraits. Quiet, reserved and sensitive, he was always attentive to the needs of others, was a great help in the kitchen and could unpitch a tent in a matter of seconds.

Dimchick, 46, our fearless driver... adept at manoeuvring treacherous roads, coping with breakdowns (he used to work as a mechanic for the Russians) and fending off agressive local drunks.

Badjack: 21 year old. University student wanting to be a guide. He accompanied us as an impromptu translator in exchange for room in a spare tent and board. He proved useful at critical times but would reach a point of saturation when bombarded with too many of our requests or questions. He would then put his hands on each side of his head and say, "Badjack very tired, not possible, not possible!" We knew then we had to give him a break. The highlights for me... were not so much the scenery as we have just as impressive-if not more striking- scenery in Canada. I enjoyed many of the animals, completely new for me. The hairy yaks, two humped camels...

...Marmots, similar to prairie dogs, darting in and out of their holes. There were amazingly huge insects, prehistoric in appearance with a deadly looking tail.

Marmot A Mongolian delicacy

And plenty of morning visitors, curious about us...

And people who train animals to help them survive...

The contact with the locals were the best moments. We were welcomed in all the gers... A modest household Example of Traditional Painting A woman in front of her handiwork Examples of Hand Embroidery The outpouring of hospitality was overwhelming. We were offered tea, curd, yogurt. Mother and Daughter making tea Salty Goat Milk tea, Goat curd and more I saw the shearing of sheep and the milking of reindeers. Locals were eager to be filmed and photographed. Their innocence, spontaneity and big smiles were really refreshing. They had a hard life but seemed happy and well fed.

It is strange to be back in the capital again. My eyes used to seeing far and wide are sadly constricted by the urban scenery. Concrete and buildings have replaced semi arid landscape, pristine lakes, lush meadows and verdant valleys. Downtown Ulaan Baatar Lake Huvsgul Terelj National Park north of Ulaan Baatar Cars have taken the place of camels, sheep and yaks! Traffic Jam in Ulan Baatar The town is getting ready for Nadaam, the biggest celebration in Mongolia. There is a festive feel in the air. People throng the shops, doing last minute errands before the family banquets and libations. Everybody will gorge on mutton meat and drink a lot of vodka (a present from the Russian occupation) and airag, horse fermented milk while watching archery feats and wrestling. I will go the stadium tomorrow to watch the opening ceremony and some of the sporting events.

Just the facts: The Nadaam festival, or eriyn gurvan nadaam, is the biggest festival of the year for Mongolians. It runs for three days in all parts of the country and highlights the greatest athletes in horse racing, archery, and wrestling, Mongolia's most popular sports.

Saying goodbye to Mongolia

After Ulaan Baatar, you start to enter the Gobi desert. It's a rocky, sandy desert with tufts of dry grass. Horses, cows and sheep are still seen, but the occasional camel is added into the mix. The desert continues into China. Ger Camp in the Gobi desert at sunset

See you at home. Next year...Spain, for sure!